One of the #DailyWritingChallenge topics was "Adventure". This is a bit of a cheat since its nearly 2,900 words long and was orginally written in 2005. However, this piece of writing is one that I am not only really proud of but also wrote using an electronic device called a Personal Digital Assistant at a time way, way before smartphones or tablets even existed...
Thursday 27 October 2005
Well, what an epic
adventure that was. I’m writing this at
the moment sitting upright in a bed in room whatever it is of the Shangrila
Lodge at Lukla Airport.
When I say Lukla
Airport I mean the Lodge
is right opposite the short take off and landing runway at Lukla. The lodge itself is curious in that it doesn’t
have any electricity in the rooms but has lights in parts of the hallways. The Lodge itself is as far as I can gather a
predominantly wooden construction internally where the rooms are lit by
candlelight.
Although
I haven’t written for a few days - well since last Saturday to be precise,
the epic adventure is that despite the time restriction for getting to Base
Camp Everest last Sunday, I managed to achieve that although not without
incident. What happened was that we as a
group were told by the tour leader before Sunday’s walk that the plan was for
an early start from Lobouche to walk to Gorak Shep where those who wanted or
were able to would go on to Base Camp.
Because as I subsequently found out, the terrain was treacherously difficult
it was necessary for the safety of the participants and the Sherpas
accompanying us to be at Base Camp by two
o’clock that afternoon to ensure all would return to Gorak Shep by five o’clock and sunset at the latest.
Because of the times
that Vicky and I had been coming in at during the earlier parts of this
expedition, effectively an hour longer than the suggested or advertised walk
times, our strategy was that if it wasn’t possible for both of us to make it to
Base Camp, at least one of us would. As
it turned out, that was me.
So, in order to
achieve this I stayed walking alongside Vicky on Sunday morning out of Lobouche
for as long as I could before moving paces ahead so that I arrived at Gorak
Shep to allow myself sufficient time to arrive at Base Camp by two o’clock. In the event, I arrived at Gorak Shep with
sufficient time to have some noodle soup for lunch as the tour guides had
organised before leaving as part of the group to Base Camp at just after a
quarter to eleven for the three hour walk.
For the first part
of the journey across the flat out of Gorak Shep and climbing up the Khumbu
Glacier (which is a bit of a misrepresentation in itself as far from being a
glacier its actually a very soft, sandy narrow ridge of crumbling rock) I was
immediately behind the lead Sherpa and moving at a fairly cracking pace. It wasn’t until about half past midday that I
needed a toilet break and although I had told one of the Sherpa guides and as I
thought a fellow trekker, by the time I came out of my toilet break continuing
on this glacial ridge, with the next turn-off approaching I realised I was
lost.
Fortunately, and
quite incredibly a group of walkers - a couple of whom where middle aged
Scottish ladies and a younger woman who I had met earlier on last week during
the stage to Naamche offered their help and said they were heading for Base
Camp and I could become part of their group.
At this stage, I was happy to do so and explained to them and their
Sherpa that I wanted to be able to be reunited with the group I was expected to
be with at Base Camp by two o’clock.
Well, the pace that
my new group were going were as the younger woman explained certainly expecting
to achieve that. So I was kind of happy.
Until by two o’clock and the reassurances of their Sherpa guide ten minutes earlier
that we would have arrived at Base Camp the Sherpa then explained that Base
Camp was still at least ten if not twenty minutes away.
As I then thought I
would never be reunited with the group I was meant to be with and more
importantly with Vicky, I just ran ahead over this hill of slippery and ice
riddled gritty, grainy grey soft screed repeatedly shouting “Charity Challenge
Diabetes UK” as loud as I could in the vain attempt of attracting the tour
guides I should have been with and my fellow trekkers. What I didn’t realise was that the ground I
was standing on really wasn’t suitable for running in. A combination of the
softness and the steepness meant that I lost my footing and fell over at least
four times - at one point falling backward and into a bit of a roll downhill.
The time at this
stage was a quarter past two and I managed to muster as much of the remaining
energy as I had to continue my mad scramble towards the crashed helicopter that
marks the site of Base Camp where I was gladly reunited with my fellow
trekkers. Unfortunately, by then I had
missed the group photo opportunity and they hadn’t thought to hold on and
include me in subsequent shots. But I
can proudly say and have the photographic proof that I have been to Base Camp
Everest. As Vicky reminded me today when
we returned to Lukla for our return trip to Katmandu, in reaching Base Camp Everest, I
have reached an altitude equivalent to half the summit of Everest itself.
Coming back to the
risk of the Kumbu glacier ridge, it wasn’t until my slow and exhausted return
from having spent every last amount of energy I had on my personal full on
assault to Base Camp that the Sherpas guiding me back to Gorak Shep explained
that it was necessary to ensure that all those who wanted to visit Base Camp
returned well before sunset because the Kumbu glacier ridge, being less than
three feet wide in places was highly unstable.
The rock and sand forming this ridge was so soft that being at the
bottom of this former glacial ridge ran the risk of being crushed by rocks from
above. Being on top of the ridge ran the
risk of loosing footing and having nowhere to go but following gravity to a
sheer drop below. When I was walking
along the ridge I had no idea of these risks and am so glad that I didn’t
beforehand. I can well and truly say
that I think I’ve overcome any fear of heights that I had before I embarked on
this trip. And whilst my experience to
Base Camp wasn’t quite what I expected in terms of being able to have a proper “I’ve
been to Base Camp” photoshoot I can proudly say I’ve done it and all in the aid
of Diabetes UK.
The postscript to
the story is that I think that the reason why I became “lost” from the rest of
the group I was supposed to be with was because the Sherpa guides who were accompanying
the tail end of the group walking behind me I can only assume turned back to
Gorak Shep with those who decided that they would not be able to arrive at Base
Camp within the designated time. It
therefore meant that with me being in the middle of the pack I must have
suddenly become the back end as it were and unaccompanied at that. Although it is nobody’s fault in particular,
it emphasised to me how important it was to stay within sight of a Sherpa
guide.
The other experience
I had which made me stop and think was earlier on today when Vicky had gone on
ahead with a couple of others after I was having a bad morning on the return
leg from where we camped last night (whose name escapes me) on the slog to
Lukla. Despite having had a refreshment break
at one of the tea houses en route less than half an hour earlier my body said I
didn’t want to walk anymore in the hot sunshine. So I sat down with the Sherpa guide who was
accompanying me to eat one of the cereal bars I was carrying and to quench my
thirst. Because of this I was at least
five if not ten minutes behind Vicky and the others.
By the time I caught
up with those immediately in front of me, two of the guys who were with Vicky
and had sat down for their own break explained that they had followed a
different route from the one I took and had shared their energy bar supplies
with Vicky as she had gone low sugar.
They were expecting her and the Sherpa guides accompanying her to appear
from where they had walked from.
Realising that I was
carrying Vicky’s sweet stock as well as all the cereal bars for today’s walk
after waiting a few minutes and seeing another of the Sherpas go on to the lane
where Vicky was supposed to have been, and the buzz of a rescue helicopter
overhead, I decided to follow the Sherpa with nothing but the sweet and cereal
bar stock that I had been carrying and ran after the Sherpa to where Vicky was.
I was glad I did for
apart from being reunited with Vicky she was able to use the supplies I had
brought her to bring her blood sugar level back to a point where she was able
to continue with her walk. What
astounded me though was through the adrenaline of thinking about Vicky an her
predicament I thought nothing of running along this narrow sandy ridge to where
she was resting and trying to recover her blood sugar level. As soon as she was back on her feet and
making her own way along this narrow lane back to the main route we were
following, accompanied by the two Nepalese speaking doctors working on our trek
with me carrying her rucksack I realised the narrowness and softness of the
route I had just run along. Again with a
sheer drop out of the corner of my eye it slowed me to a virtual cliff hugging
crawl. When one of the doctors realised
this, he offered me his walking stick with which I regained the confidence in
my legs to move a little bit faster to resume on the main route.
Other than that,
without looking over the earlier entries I can’t think if there was anything
much else to say except that over the last few days being part of this charity
expedition in aid of Diabetes UK has been a real emotional and certainly
physical challenge. Now that we’re back
in Lukla where the adventure started just under two weeks ago, I can say that
it has been an amazing experience for me.
The parts of Nepal that we’ve visited particularly around Sagarmartha
National Park and the perimeter “buffer” zone that has been established coming
out to Lukla have been amazingly beautiful.
The Sherpas that I’ve met are some of the most amazing people I have had
the opportunity to meet so far. Vicky
and I would have liked to have been able to express our gratitude for their
support and assistance during our own endeavours over the last two weeks with
more than the amount we were expecting and had allowed ourselves (as in
budgeted with the spending money we brought out with us) to contribute.
As for our
participation on the trip, I really had thought especially after the stage up
to camp at Naamche Bazzar that Vicky and I would end up getting an early flight
home. In the event, we remained
consistent with our standard and effort completing each part of the expedition
within an hour of the suggested or advertised walk times. There were points during the last two weeks
when I really and truly thought that I wouldn’t be able to carry on or that
being part of this trip was too frustrating in itself - particularly when I was
wanting to move at a faster pace than we had been either because I was worried
about not being back at camp by sunset or because of the onset of cold and
inclement weather. Although there was
only one occasion when we didn’t make back to camp before sunset and required
the Sherpas to guide us back by torchlight, I cannot believe even with that
experience how much Vicky and I along with everybody else on this trip has been
able to achieve.
On a purely personal
level, and not wishing to count on other people’s misfortunes to think that ten
percent of those who started as part of this trip were forced to drop out of
which two actually required helicopter assistance to medical aid. During the last fortnight the distance
covered each day was at least ten kilometres if not more and the altitude gain
during the “acclimization” phase was something like five hundred metres a day
with the descent phase of over a thousand metres a day. Apart from a little bit of a funny tummy when
I first arrived I certainly did not suffer to the extent that Vicky and the
others on the group suffered from the stomach upsets that they did. Apart from a couple of mornings in the last
couple of days with the breakfast routine I have largely enjoyed the food that
we’ve been experiencing although I must admit I have been hankering after all
the things I regularly eat or have access to foodwise at home - to the point
that I found myself fantasising about them whilst I’ve been walking along
earlier on this week. I’ve certainly not
experienced the ill effects of altitude sickness that we had been warned to
expect and to try to avoid. As for my
asthma, that hasn’t even featured and I’ve not been taking any of the
medication I had brought with me. I had
wondered on that score whether the cleaner as in non-metropolitan air was a
contributory factor to my respiratory well being.
The only things I
have been suffering from is this stupid cold that I seem to have acquired in
the last couple of days with the runny nose and sore throat. I wish I had also taken more care with the
sun protection on my face and lips rather than going back to London with the flaky forehead, peely lips
and nose.
I did or have during
this trip reached stages where I have missed the creature comforts of
home. Being in the relative comfort of a
lodge or the Nepalese equivalent of a hostel has made tonight easier. But the fact that the toilets are of the “squat”
variety and that the conveniences when we have been camping have hardly been
convenient at all has been something I will not regret saying goodbye to and
banishing to a distant memory. The lack
of comfort and washing facilities has had to take some getting use to. As I was saying to one of the others on the
trek that I would have thought more comfortable and convenient washing and
sleeping facilities may have enabled fewer people to have been taken ill during
the trek and more people to have included the excursion to Base Camp. Sleeping in tents in sub-zero temperatures
and staying in electricity free lodges that more closely resemble garden sheds
with external toilet and shower facilities has not been my idea of fun or a
holiday of a lifetime.
It also disappoints
me too as I said earlier in this journal that the camaraderie of the group hasn’t
or wasn’t as I expected it to be. I
realise from being on this trip that the amount of preparation for an
experience like this and the physical as well to an extent the emotional
abilities of individuals are very different.
For some, it has been a lifelong ambition to visit Everest. For others, it is about combining the
physical pursuit of following the route that we have with raising money for
charity. Some may see it as a life-affirming
almost spiritual experience. For me, it
has been more about the physical challenge and its fund raising
associations. As I say, the last two
weeks for me have been as much about a test of my own endurance in being able
to complete the physical challenge of visiting Base Camp Everest. To that extent, even if I do say so myself I
am impressed with what I have achieved and what I have overcome to complete the
challenge - especially during those times when I felt that I could physically
not go on and was so “bored” and frustrated by the experience that I longed to
be back in my routine rather than so far out of my personal comfort zone.
What I have learnt
from the experience has been the ability of physical endurance or being able to
push myself beyond any level of physical endurance I have done before. That Sargarmatha National Park
is so beautiful. Sherpas are the most
amazing people I have ever met.